hey all, i got three questions...

#1: i need a monitor to take with me for my movie shoots....using my AG-DVX100's lcd screen sucks because stuff always looks bigger on the big screen, and a lot of people have reccomended them. what kind should I get?

#2: What do i do about power on a movie set? Say im filming in the middle of a street and i need a bunch of lights to be plugged in, but there's nowhere for me to plug them in. what do i do?

#3: is there anyway to put 24p footage from the AG-DVX100 into FCP3, edit it, and export it back to my cam without it looking choppy and messed up?

Here's a forum topic about Night lighting...people talk about lighting power and stuff without outlets and all.
Night Lighting (POWER FOR LIGHTING)


Hey dude, your from Sacramento! How old are you?

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TacoWagonProductions
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as to your third question, you should be able to load it on to your comp. edit it as usual, and just make sure the export is set to 24p. I'm not sure, but that may do it.

On the DVX100 when you import it into your computer you said you were using 24p mode so I am assuming not advanced. Therefor, when you are exporting to your computer, it automatically does a pulldown to where you are importing at 30 frames and the footage will remain true 24p. You still edit at 30 frames, but the footage is 24. So nothing gets messed up. When you export back to the camera, it still is 30 frames.
The only way you can keep it entirely 24 frames the whole way through is to use 24 p advanced and get an editing program that supports 24 frame editing. Im not sure that FCP3 does but i know that FCP4 will.

Thomas Verrette
tommy21485@earthlink.net
Imperial Pictures

Yeah make sure you shoot in 24p and not 24pa (for advanced) If you shoot in the later youll have to do the pulldown yourself after editing (If your software can even read the 24pa) If your footage is looking "choppy" this is the problem.
R. Michael

"Luck, is when opportunity, meets preperation." "There are 3 sides to every story. Yours, mine, and the truth, and none of us are lying" -Robert Evans
Tizzy Entertainment

quote:

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Originally posted by Imperial Pictures:
when you are exporting to your computer, it automatically does a pulldown to where you are importing at 30 frames and the footage will remain true 24p.

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Just to clarify, the camera does the pulldown using a buffer before recording to tape or live ouputting, not while capturing to your computer. Same phenomenon with 24pa mode only with a different cadence.

quote:

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Originally posted by TizzyEntertainment:
Yeah make sure you shoot in 24p and not 24pa (for advanced) If you shoot in the later youll have to do the pulldown yourself after editing (If your software can even read the 24pa)

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If you shoot in 24pa mode you'll want to convert your captured footage using a plug-in BEFORE editing. Then do your edit in a 24p environment. I don't know exacly how the plug-ins work, but if you edit before converting either (a) you'll have the wrong extraction fields on certain shots (resulting in almost amplifed interlace artifacts instead of Non-existant) or (b) the meat of shots will be fine, but beginning and/or end frames may have an interlaced overlap from it's neighboring shot. B is obviously the less of two evils, but like I said I don't know which is the case and neither would be good anyway.

Nota "Doubts many people mess with 24pa anyway" Mono

and what about the monitors?

thanks for ur input

What's your price range for a field monitor? If it's less than, say, 600 bucks, I'd spend 100-150 and get a 13 or 19 inch tv from Fry's. For 600 plus, you can get a nice 9 or 13 inch field broadcast monitor. There are benifits to having a real monitor, but once you get used to your TV--and how the video looks there compared to your computer and other TVs--it might make more sense to spend your hard earned money on something else.

good for you for wanting a broadcast monitor or tv, though. It's so much easier to light off that than a 2.5 inch LCD screen.

joren

hey joren, thanks for ur answer...

would you recommend this thing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3043078465&category=21517

300 horizontal lines of resolution ain't much. It's a good deal if you need 120v/230v NTSC/PAL 4:3/16:9 selectability. Or if you want to rack mount two side-by-side. Otherwise, I'd probably pass and get at least a 13" with at 400-600 lines of resolution.

You live in Sac, right? Go to Fry's and look at their 13" TVs. You'll find decent ones for around a hundred bucks, and won't have to pay S+H. Just make sure it has composite inputs.

joren

composite inputs? what are those?

and i guess i'd have to find a way to hook these monitors up to a power plug huh?

composite input is a s-video or RCA-type plug. As opposed to only having a cable input. As far as power, Fry's often has 12v/120v models designed for RVs and Vans. Then all you'd have to carry around is a 12v battery ... or 2 6vs in series.